Rwanda: Kigali's Calm and the Volcanoes Gorillas

Rwanda has become the most polished destination in East Africa. The capital, Kigali, is clean, safe, and surprisingly green, and the mountain gorillas of Volcanoes National Park are just a two-and-a-half-hour drive away.

Gorilla trekking in Rwanda is more expensive than in Uganda, but it is also more accessible. The park headquarters at Kinigi is well organized, the briefing is clear, and the terrain is often slightly easier than Bwindi. Permits cost around 1,500 US dollars per person, and the revenue directly funds conservation and local communities.

Kigali is worth at least a full day. Visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial to understand the country's recent history, then walk through the Kimironko Market and the Nyamirambo neighbourhood for everyday life. The food scene is excellent: try Rwandan brochettes, ugali, and the growing number of farm-to-table restaurants.

Volcanoes National Park is not only about gorillas. Golden monkey trekking is a cheaper and equally charming alternative, and the Dian Fossey Trek leads to the researcher's former grave and research station. The views of the Virunga volcanoes are spectacular even if you do not trek.

The best time to visit is the dry season from June to September and December to February. Roads are good by African standards, and most lodges near the park offer comfortable rooms with fireplaces for the cool mountain evenings.

Rwanda is small, so you can combine gorillas with a safari in Akagera National Park and a lakeside break at Lake Kivu. The country is easy to travel independently, but most visitors book a package that handles permits, transport, and lodges.