Nature
Madagascar: Avenue of the Baobabs and Lemur Country
Why Madagascar feels like another planet, and how to plan a route from the baobab avenue to the rainforest reserves.
By Julien Marchetti · 10 November 2026 · 10 min read
Madagascar is not just off the coast of Africa; it feels off the coast of everywhere. Eighty percent of its plants and animals are found nowhere else on earth, the roads are famously bad, and the reward for the effort is a country that looks and feels like a lost world.
Most trips start in Antananarivo, the capital, and head west to the Avenue of the Baobabs. These towering trees line a dirt road near Morondava, and sunset here is one of Madagascar's iconic images. Stay nearby and visit at both sunrise and sunset for the best light.
The real wildlife action is in the eastern rainforests. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park is the easiest reserve to reach from the capital and the best place to see indri, the largest living lemur, whose haunting call carries through the forest. Night walks reveal chameleons, mouse lemurs, and sleeping birds.
Isalo National Park in the south offers canyon hikes, natural swimming pools, and tombs cut into the rock faces. It is hot and dry, so start hikes early and carry plenty of water. The nearby town of Ranohira has simple lodges and guides.
Getting around takes time. Internal flights with Tsaradia connect the main hubs and save days of driving. If you overland, expect long, bumpy days and plan for breaks. The tourist infrastructure is thin outside the main routes, so book lodges ahead.
The best time to visit is April to November, after the cyclone season and before the heaviest rains. Bring patience, a sense of humour, and a flexible itinerary. Madagascar is hard travel, but it repays the effort with lemurs, baobabs, and landscapes you will not find anywhere else.